September 14, 1970

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THE STEAKS ARE HIGH

Cunning, con, the computer and unmasked contempt for consumer taste trumpet a theme for survival in Manhattan’s wilted restaurant industry. Tenderizer holds dominion. The success of the $1.59 steak, merchandized for $5.50, reveals we are not nearly the demanding gastronomes our passion for shallots and devotion to Julia Child might suggest…more

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