Insatiable Critic Gael Greene

GAEL AMONG THE BRIES

There is champagne on ice in my Parisian friend’s fridge — and Contrexéville, the water that claims to keep you thin. Neither strikes me as balm for traveler’s malaise. But here is a green-gold pear. One bite, and suddenly I know I am in France. The pear is a rare kind of miracle. It tastes intensely like…pear. And so the insatiable sybarite is on the loose again in Truffleland…more