It’s not exactly Bulgari but hoity-toity little Amaranth Café moving into the old P&G Bar space seals the deal on optimistic gentrification of spottily gussied up Amsterdam at 73rd Street. Salumeria Rosi next door, cheek to cheek with pioneer settler Jacques Torres, had right of first refusal when the 66-year-old saloon opted to move six blocks uptown because of a painful rent increase. “My partner, he want yes,” Cesare Casella confided, “but I want to open more in other neighborhoods.” Clubby Amaranth, anything but a food destination at 62nd Street off Fifth Avenue, will be bringing its Mediterranean menu and popular robbiolo-stuffed foccacia to a neighborhood where eye candy is not a currency. Will it be full of its usual sugar daddies with long legged blondes?  And will devoted Eurotarts be able to find the Upper West Side? Drat. I did so long to see Bulgari on Amsterdam.

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