by Cheryl Greenhill
Stephen Paul Mancini (Wine and Spirit Director/Sommelier at Union Square Cafe): I have a few spots. Eighth Street Wine Cellar, owned by two former restaurateurs, is a big sommelier hang out, especially for people from Babbo, Otto, and Gotham. I’m a huge Italian soccer fan, so I go to Nevada Smith’s. Smoke is a great jazz bar up in Harlem.
Michael Nelson (Sommelier/Gotham Bar and Grill): I go to restaurants more than lounges or bars. I really like Dell’Anima in the West Village. They have a very exotic bar – the wine list is all Italian, but it’s terrific. At Alta the owner loves wine himself and doesn’t price his list much above what he buys it for. It’s a true sommelier destination.
Heather Branch (Sommelier/Eighty One): Terroir is a big sommelier hangout right now. Though at the end of a workday, the last thing I want to do is drink wine. So when you see me out with my friends (many also sommeliers), we’ll be at a cocktail lounge. Flatiron Lounge has great cocktails and comfortable couches.
MN: People tend to resist or be defensive, assuming I’m going to steer them to an expensive bottle. Tell me exactly what you want (in taste and price) and I’m happy to point out some lesser known bottle that could be a good buy.
CA: Tell the sommelier what you like to drink and ask for a recommendation. People feel odd talking about price but I appreciate it. Diners often are too vague saying, “I like dry, red wine.” What else do you like? Fruity. Big. A Pinot Noir? Give me more information. A great option is to order your meal, then ask the sommelier to pick out a bottle that works. Sommeliers get a kick out of being trusted.
What’s a wine I probably don’t know that you love?
Dagan Koffler (Owner of Epiphany, a private wine tasting service; former sommelier at Alto, Del Posto, Otto): Gewurztraminer by Navarro Vineyards in Anderson Valley, CA. One of the most unique Gewurzt on the market today.
MN: In terms of whites on the Gotham wine list, I like wines from Alto Adige. They are fun and snappy wines that people might expect to be boring, but are stunningly good. Also, Pinot Gris from Alsace, a savory, rich wine. Even red drinkers like it. Among the reds, I like Aglianicos from the Southern part of Italy, very complex, firm and rich, yet inexpensive.
Jean-Baptiste Humbert (owner, Wine Therapy in Manhattan): The Southwest area of France deserves more attention. There is great value there, especially in the Gaillac and Bergerac regions, where winemakers are preserving interesting grapes from extinction. Languedocs should be explored too.
CA: That is a hard question. Kingswood has a Côtes de Gascogne Blanc for $8 a glass, outrageous for the price. We have a Riesling from Steinmetz that is biodynamic and beautiful, and very well priced. Beaujolais Cru are always underrated, and for some reason connote low quality to American wine drinkers.
HB: One of the wines I’ve been pouring since opening is a dry style muscatel, Botani from Malaga. An Austrian winemaker took an old vine muscatel and started experimenting. It’s not quite a Riesling or a sauvignon blanc. It’s just a really interesting wine that goes very well with the food Ed Brown cooks at Eighty One.
Look into your crystal ball… what is the next big trend in wine?
SPM: With the Euro so high in 2005 and 2006, prices for “big name” wines like Barolo, Burgundy, and Bordeaux will soar. So, the trend will be to focus on traditionally-made wines with more individuality, like Grillo and Scavigna. Look to Languedocs and Bando Blancs.
MN: People will veer away from the absurdity of buying high priced wine simply for the label, not for the quality. Instead of just saying Pinot Noir, customers will become savvier, and that might ultimately be a good thing for the industry.
J-PH: I’m hoping for a push toward sulphur-free wines. I also think that people will come to realize that they want a wine from a small vineyard rather than a big corporate winery. In my shop, I focus on the smaller estates.
CA: I hope to see naturally produced wines with low environmental impact. I would love to see New York State wines gain popularity. Some of them are truly outstanding and buying locally is so important. I think South American Pinot Noirs are likely the next big thing. Patagonia seems to be producing some very good stuff. I also think bar patrons are going to start seeing wine on tap, which will be fun.
HB: More people are ordering Malbecs off the list or wines from Argentina or Chile. These wines are not so foreign, and they have enough of a track record that people really do feel comfortable with them.
Where should we buy wine?
MN: Chambers Street Wines is an amazingly sophisticated store. There is never a bad bottle on the shelf. Also, Astor Place Wines. The woman who does the buying there has a brilliant palate. Crush is also fantastic. They sell wines that even restaurants can’t get. Finally, Moore Brothers Wine Company is great. They only sell wines that they import, and they all have the Moore Brother’s back label.
SPM: Find a store with owners who have a deep interest in the wines. Apart from big spots like Chambers Street Wine, Union Square Wines and Astor Wines, go to a great little gem like Wine Therapy on Elizabeth Street.
HB: I actually think the web is a great place to buy wines. A lot of stores in New York don’t have wines from boutique vineyards available on a consistent basis. If you go to the website of the winemaker, you might have better luck. You can also find old vintages on line.
Restaurants
Alta: 64 West 10th Street. 212.505.7777
Dell’Anima: 38 8th Avenue. 212.366.6633
Eighty One: 45 West 81st Street. 212.873.8181
Gotham Bar & Grill: 12 East 12th Street. 212.620.4020
Gottino: 52 Greenwich Avenue. 212.633.2590
Kingswood: 121 West 10th Street. 212.645.0044
The Spotted Pig: 314 West 11th Street. 212.620.0393
Union Square Cafe: 21 East 16th Street. 212.243.4020
Bars and Lounges
Eighth Street Wine Cellar: 28 West 8th Street. 212.260.9463
Flatiron Lounge: 37 West 19th Street. 212.727.7741
Nevada Smiths: 74 3rd Avenue. 212.982.2591
Smoke: 2751 Broadway. 212.864.6662
The Ten Bells: 247 Broome Street. 212.228.4450
Terroir: 413 East 12th Street. no phone
Wine Shops and Services
Astor Place Wines: 399 Lafayette Street. 212.674.7500
Chambers Street Wines: 148 Chambers Street. 212.227.1434
Crush: 153 East 57th Street. 212.980.9463
Epiphany: www.epiphanynyc.com. 619.813.2982
Moore Brothers Wine Company: 33 East 20th Street. 212.375.1575
Union Square Wines: 140 4th Avenue. 212.675.8100
Wine Therapy: www.winetherapynyc.com: 171 Elizabeth Street. 212.625.2999
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