Vintage Insatiable Critic: 1982-1984
NOUVELLE BOUNCE AT LE PÉRIGORD
February 8, 1982
The new chef from has certainly revitalized the fusty Périgord. Its doddering lineup of dreary classics is gone… more
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October 25, 1982
“Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” That’s a motto Sheila Lukins lives by. Once upon a time, Sheila was just an innocent and passionate hausfrau…more
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November 22, 1982
The Ansonia is one of the West Side’s grand old buildings, an astonishing rendition of Beaux-Arts baroque now getting a flashy face-lift. “Louise H.” lives on the fifteenth floor in a nearly bare room with great high ceilings and a vintage bath, an air conditioner that cackles in the wind, a hot plate, and all her belongings in shopping bags piled high in one corner…more
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December 20, 1982
You won’t see King Kong at the new DDL, but everybody else is there… Dino himself handing out bread samples opening day…more
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February 14, 1983
Hard to imagine anyone recapturing the sense-dizzying electricity, the innocent eccentricity of Le Plaisir at its most glorious…more
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SHOOTING FOR STARS AT THE POLO
February 21, 1983
Spiffed up and clubby, the Polo may not be instant perfection, but there are dazzlers emerging from the kitchen…more
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June 20, 1983
The curious epicure: “What are they eating in Italy? Has the nouvelle cuisine had any impact?”…more
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July 18, 1983
This brave departure from New York’s Chinese-restaurant cliché may startle pepper-blistered palates…more
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July 25, 1983
Fans of the Late Late Show will recognize Erminia at once. It’s that cozy little Italian joint, just down the street where Gene Kelly would woo “the girl.” … more
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September 12, 1983
Surely this is what the decline and fall o f Rome must have felt like: a jaded populace, all morality abandoned, lurching about the streets in search of new sensory stimulation… more
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March 5, 1984
All my life I’ve been haunted by the feeling that in another life I was definitely the Queen of England. That’s why, though a child of unassuming folks from unassuming Michigan, I feel so at home in outrageous luxury… more
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A BREAKTHROUGH ON THE WESTERN FRONT
October 23, 1983
Oh how hungry we are, we Zip Code-hopping cowboys of Manhattan’s West Side. How we’ve longed for a cozy neighborhood feeding station… more
LATEST FROM FRANCE: THE ELOQUENT DOLLAR
November 7, 1983
All the buzz about Grandmother’s cooking two years ago made it sound as if Paris might be turned into a giant tripe pot…but then, tripe and stews and glorious blood sausage never disappeared, not even at the height of kiwi power… more
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WHAT’S HOT AND WHAT’S NOT: THE YOUNG AND THE LISTLESS
September 24, 1984
“The Whole of Nature…is a conjugation of the verb to eat,” wrote the Anglican prelate William Ralph Inge. And nowhere is the verb so passionately conjugated as in the Emerald City on the Hudson…more
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October 8, 1984
Why is Mezzaluna the hot fueling spot of the moment? It is winsome. It is clever. And sometimes the food is splendid…more
October, 22, 1984
The new Plaza Athénée is not very French and not grand enough, but its restaurant’s a hit with the neighborhood richlings…more
November, 12, 1984
Antoni Miralda’s calculated discount funk and witty food-art set the stage for Barcelona’s Montse Guillen and her fabulous tapas…more
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