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Hell or High Watermelon: Pinch Chinese
Read More: Hell or High Watermelon: Pinch ChineseHere’s my take: Modest. Clean. Whimsical…
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I-Chin
Read More: I-ChinI’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the…
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Picholine
Read More: PicholineWill a younger crowd be drawn, as chef-owner Terrance Brennan hopes, by this new stripped-down elegance (sedate if not soporific), new sound (Diana Krall instead of Pavarotti), and new…
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Je’Bon Noodle House
Read More: Je’Bon Noodle HouseBare-bones plain, cheap, and earnest, Je’Bon Noodles seems oblivious to our town’s bold new world of pulsating Asian eateries-on-steroids.
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Darna
Read More: DarnaNew York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurant-but until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.
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The North Fork Table & Inn
Read More: The North Fork Table & InnA duo of fine-dining veterans, burned out by the city and smitten with Long Island’s rich local harvest, have made the brand-new North Fork Table & Inn an imperative…
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Sfoglia
Read More: SfogliaHow can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our…
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Central Park Boathouse
Read More: Central Park BoathouseIn the past, a Boathouse table was basically about inhaling nature-never mind the food. Today the kitchen sends out thrillingly pure crab cakes, and a lush salmon-and-oyster tartare with…
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Dressler
Read More: DresslerThe scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything…
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Le Cirque
Read More: Le CirqueLe Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tete de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.











